Sunscreen Safety

Even though we are entering fall, sunscreen is one of those products estheticians recommend daily—for every skin type, for every client. But if it’s not performing the way it should, that’s a huge red flag for users and us as professionals.  

In August, the FDA issued several warnings to manufacturers over the production of sunscreen:  

1. “Sunscreen doping,” referring to when products aren’t living up to their label 
2. The rise of foam sunscreens, which may not be providing the protection they promise.  

What is Sunscreen Doping? 

So, let’s start with sunscreen doping. The term sounds dramatic, but what it means is that some manufacturers are boosting their SPF by adding unapproved chemical UV filters to sunscreen formulations, especially those marketed as mineral-only, to boost the SPF value and UV protection. These unapproved UV filters are not FDA-approved for sun protection and may only appear in the inactive ingredients section of the label.¹ 

To be clear, “doping” is the intentional use of these filters to boost SPF. Some manufacturers may have UV filters added to their formulas simply to improve solubility and film performance.²
 

In a mineral formula, this practice increases SPF value without having a high percentage of zinc or titanium dioxide and keeps the formula more transparent. In a chemical formula, this practice increases the SPF value on the label and improves efficacy.  

Sunscreen Safety, New Concerns 

One of the biggest problems posed by the FDA is that sunscreen doping ingredients have not gone through the same rigorous testing as other FDA-approved UV filters.² Using these unapproved ingredients is a loophole to make products look more protective than they are. People buying “mineral-only” sunscreens may unknowingly be using a hybrid chemical and mineral formula.  

The Problem with Foam 

The other concern is the growing popularity of foam sunscreens. They look fun and are super marketable, but testing shows they may not be delivering consistent or adequate coverage. Unfortunately, foam is not within the FDA’s list of approved dosage forms, which consist of lotions, creams, gels, oils, pastes, sprays, powders, butters, or sticks.³ The FDA has emphasized that unless a new form for sunscreen is approved, the foam is misbranded, making it illegal to market in the US.⁴ Additional concerns were raised by the FDA about packaging, stating that some brands have used whipped-cream style canisters, which could be mistaken for food. This could pose a risk of accidental ingestion.  

 

Notes 

Britt Fallon, NewBeauty, “What Is Sunscreen Doping?,” April 29, 2024, https://www.newbeauty.com/sunscreen-doping/#:~:text=What%20Does%20%E2%80....

Claudia Teng, Pavīse, “What is SPF Doping?,” February 6, 2023, https://pavise.com/blogs/in-the-lab/what-is-spf-doping. 

US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), “Sunscreen: How to Help Protect Your Skin from the Sun,” August 16, 2024, https://www.fda.gov/drugs/understanding-over-counter-medicines/sunscreen...

US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), “Warning Letter: Supergoop! 08/06/2025,” accessed September 4, 2025, https://www.fda.gov/inspections-compliance-enforcement-and-criminal-inve... US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), “Warning Letter: K & Care Organics 08/06/2025,” accessed September 4, 2025, https://www.fda.gov/inspections-compliance-enforcement-and-criminal-inve...