In a time where much of our advice comes from the internet, how does one navigate something as unique and personal as skin care advice? Many turn to online advisors or influencers without clarifying their qualifications. In this episode, we offer our own advice, busting 3 myths that you may not have considered in your search.
ASCP Esty Talk with Maggie Staszcuk and Ella Cressman
Produced by Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP) for licensed estheticians, ASCP Esty Talk is a weekly podcast hosted by Maggie Staszcuk and Ella Cressman. We see your passion, innovation, and hard work and are here to support you by providing a platform for networking, advocacy, camaraderie, and education. We aim to inspire you to ask the right questions, find your motivation, and give you the courage to have the professional skin care career you desire.
About Ella Cressman:
Ella Cressman is a licensed esthetician, certified organic formulator, business owner, and absolute ingredient junkie! As an educator, she enjoys empowering other estheticians and industry professionals to understand skin care from an ingredient standpoint rather than a product-specific view.
She has spent many hours researching ingredients, understanding how and where they are sourced, as well as phytochemistry, histological access, and complementary compounds for intentional skin benefits. In addition to running a skin care practice, Cressman founded a comprehensive consulting group, the HHP Collective, and has consulted for several skin care lines, including several successful CBD brands.
Connect with Ella Cressman:
About Maggie Staszcuk:
Maggie has been a licensed esthetician since 2006 and holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from Stephens College. She has worked in the spa and med-spa industry and served as an esthetics instructor and a director of education for one of the largest schools in Colorado before coming to ASCP as the Advanced Modality Specialist.
Connect with Maggie Staszcuk:
P 800.789.0411 EXT 1636
E MStaszcuk@ascpskincare.com or AMI@ascpskincare.com
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About Truth Treatment Systems:
Truth Treatment Systems, developed by Benjamin Knight Fuchs, registered pharmacist, nutritionist, skin care chemist, and star of the Rogue Pharmacist podcast series on ASCP Esty Talk, was founded with a scientific and holistic approach to skin care—always taking into consideration the mind, body, skin connection.
Benjamin Knight Fuchs has been developing pharmacy-potent skin health products for estheticians, dermatologists, and plastic surgeons for 30+ years. He believes correcting the skin is about the health of the skin, which directly correlates to the overall health of the body.
If you want the “Truth” on results-driven skin care, visit www.truthtreatmentspro.com or download the Truth360 app anywhere apps are found. Get instant access to continuing education from Benjamin Knight Fuchs and Truth Treatment Systems line of products.
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Elleebana continues to push the treatment evolution envelope and influence the global market. Company Director, Otto Mitter is a qualified Cosmetic Chemist of the Institute of Personal Care Science and award-winning global & lash brow educator. Highly passionate about product ingredients, research and development and ongoing education, Otto is the innovator for the world famous Elleebana One Shot Lash Lift system, Elleeplex ReGEN and Elleebana Brow Henna, as well as Co-Producer of the Belmacil Lash & Brow Tinting System. Otto continues to extend the boundaries of product development within the world of beauty and in collaboration with other world leaders in the industry.
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About Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP):
Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP) is the nation’s largest association for skin care professionals and your ONLY all-inclusive source for professional liability insurance, education, community, and career support. For estheticians at every stage of the journey, ASCP is your essential partner. Get in touch with us today if you have any questions or would like to join and become an ASCP member.
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Ep 125 - ASCP Esty Talk - Mythbusters_FINAL
0:00:00.0 Speaker 1: Achieve real results for your clients with the help of the new Truth 360 app, brought to you by Truth Treatment Systems, the Truth 360 app makes client at-home care recommendations easy and features a customizable storefront to make at-home care recommendations and purchases simple. No big opening orders required, plus get access to advanced skin care education developed by Benjamin Knight Fuchs professional discounts on products and earn up to 30% commission on all products sold through your Truth 360 app storefront. Visit truthtreatmentspro.com or download the Truth 360 app from your phone's app store. ASCP members log on to ascpskincare.com now to access your limited time discount code. You are listening to ASCP Esty talk, where we share insider tips, industry resources and education for aestheticians at every stage of the journey. Let's talk because ASCP knows, it's all about you.
0:01:09.6 Ella: Hello and welcome to ASCP Esty talk I am Ella Cressman, licensed aesthetician, certified organic skincare formulator and content contributor for Associated Skin Care Professionals.
0:01:22.8 Maggie: I am Maggie Staszcuk, licensed aesthetician and ASCP's cosmetology education manager.
0:01:28.1 Tracy: Hi guys and I'm Tracy Donley, Executive Director of Associated Skin Care Professionals, and I'm super excited again to be sitting here with these lovely ladies and just chiming in where necessary.
0:01:39.7 Ella: Well, you guys today's topic might need some comic relief, because some of these are laughable in my opinion, now you guys know that I'm a researcher, that's no secret, and I'm always... Let's call it actively observant of what's going on in the industry and also known as like, I'm online all the time, looking.
0:01:58.5 Maggie: You are the eye in the sky.
0:02:00.8 Ella: I'm always looking, I'm always seeing what is happening because I want to understand, not just in the professional arena, but also in the direct-to-consumer market, the over-the counter, whatever you want to refer to it as, I wanna know what people are saying, I wanna know what ingredients people are talking about, I wanna know what procedures are garnering interest. And then on top of that, I wanna know what advice are people giving.
0:02:27.1 Maggie: You are a curious little lady.
0:02:28.6 Ella: I am. Some people call it a creeper.
0:02:32.8 Tracy: Maggie's laughing so hard 'cause she knows it's true.
0:02:34.8 Ella: So what I've noticed is there's a few common threads, right, there are some helpful facts and there are other crazy inaccuracies, and I thought that in today's episode, what we should talk about is some of... Trust me, there's plenty. But let's talk about three skin care myths that seem to me to run abundant online.
0:02:58.7 Tracy: Yeah, are we gonna play a game?
0:03:01.1 Ella: Yes.
0:03:01.1 Tracy: Yes!
0:03:01.7 Ella: And I wanna start out with a quote, and this quote comes from Sophocles who's an ancient Greek, very smart person, and he says, no enemy is worse than bad advice. What do you guys think about that?
0:03:15.3 Maggie: Yeah. I agree.
0:03:15.4 Tracy: Oh, it's true it can really jack your world up if you take some bad advice.
0:03:20.3 Ella: Absolutely. I think back 20 years ago, the advice that we would see was person to person, interpersonal advice, right? And now, we trust the advice of strangers, so if we're online...
0:03:33.7 Tracy: Faceless strangers.
0:03:35.0 Ella: Faceless strangers and unqualified, I would say.
0:03:38.8 Tracy: It's so true.
0:03:39.5 Ella: Right, so just a quick Google search, I mean, you hear that with medical too, like Dr. Google.
0:03:45.4 Maggie: WebMD. Oh, I've got this, oh no.
0:03:49.4 Ella: Everything's coming up, cancer, it could be a cough, and I've done that at the doctor's office, I'm pretty sure this is what I have and they're like, I'm pretty sure it's not.
0:04:01.1 Maggie: I think what people are really good at is Googling for the answer they want to hear.
0:04:06.3 Ella: Oh, that's a good one.
0:04:06.3 Tracy: Yes, Maggie.
0:04:07.6 Ella: Keep on searching.
0:04:08.7 Tracy: Until you get what you want.
0:04:10.1 Ella: Yeah, and I think that's possible. Absolutely. So the first thing I think we should talk about, let's do a little true or false.
0:04:19.9 Tracy: Yay.
0:04:20.3 Ella: I'm gonna ask a question and you guys, I'm gonna count to three and you say truth or false, or true or false. Okay, okay, ready? An online quiz is a good way to help satisfy your skin care needs, one, two, three.
0:04:34.6 Tracy: False.
0:04:35.1 Maggie: False. Yes.
0:04:35.9 Ella: Nice, okay.
0:04:36.6 Tracy: Unanimous.
0:04:37.4 Ella: You both agree on that.
0:04:39.1 Maggie: But I love online quizzes, and it does satisfy something.
0:04:43.9 Tracy: It scratches an itch.
0:04:44.9 Maggie: It does.
0:04:46.0 Ella: Okay, so there's two things I want to point out. Let's hear more from you, Maggie. Tell me that itch. What does that mean?
0:04:53.1 Maggie: I'm not really sure what the itch is, but I think they're really interesting, you type in the information, whatever it's asking for, like are you oily all day long, for instance, yes or no. And you get an outcome, maybe it's like a certain skin care regimen or maybe it's diagnosing you in some way, and I think it's very curious and interesting, and I sometimes find myself going back and altering my answers, whether they're true or not, to see if I get a different outcome, and sometimes not which means the quizzes are not very accurate.
0:05:28.3 Tracy: Oh it's fixed, it's fixed.
0:05:30.1 Maggie: It's fixed. I don't know, I just... Yeah, it is satisfying some weird itch.
0:05:34.6 Ella: Do you think that goes to what you said about Google searching for what you want, the outcome you want?
0:05:39.4 Maggie: Yeah, probably.
0:05:40.5 Tracy: I think the itch that it's satisfying is that we all we just want things to be personalized, we wanna know more and more about ourselves all the time as just human beings, how many of those standardized personality quizzes can we take? Oh, you're a born leader, you're an influencer. Oh, you're emotional. Oh, you're sensitive. You just want to know. I think it applies to everything.
0:06:06.4 Ella: Except for the one of like, are you a narcissist?
0:06:10.4 Tracy: I never take that quiz.
0:06:13.5 Ella: I saw that recently, and I fell for that one.
0:06:16.3 Maggie: Oh, really?
0:06:17.6 Tracy: Yeah, she'll take it.
0:06:19.9 Ella: So I find it interesting for a couple of reasons. So I was working with a brand probably about a year and a half ago, and we were developing their website, we had their product development on point, formulations were great, so now we were doing messaging. So I said, "Great, what's the basis of your quiz?" And I'm an esthetician, I've got a very critical eye, and that's one thing I did on their website, where I was like, "This is not correct, this is not correct." [laughter] Removing all claims and had done a full audit, so that was all on point and now she was adamant she wanted this test. She's like, I don't know, I just found it people like it, I said, Okay, let me take your test, and there was nothing to back it up.
0:06:55.1 Tracy: So the answer that you received after taking the quiz?
0:06:57.7 Ella: There was nothing connecting it to this brand other than those widget of sorts, there was no science behind it, so.
0:07:04.6 Tracy: Even in the outcome?
0:07:06.3 Ella: The whole thing from start to finish, it wasn't related to the products that they had. It was like a random quiz, let's insert this as a plug in the backend of my website. Had nothing to do with the products that they had, and I thought, I'm skeptical. So yesterday, I take this online quiz for myself, and they asked all these questions and it was cute, to your point, like I see online quizzes are fun.
0:07:31.4 Tracy: It was worded all catchy and fun?
0:07:33.6 Ella: Yeah. And I love that, and fun questions and a little bit of undertone of snark, I'm like, Oh, you're funny.
0:07:40.5 Tracy: I love that.
0:07:41.3 Ella: And it comes up with, the questions they ask are, how old are you? [chuckle] It just hit me, maybe that's why they got to this answer. [laughter] How old are you, do you tan easy, what are you looking for in a product? And it came up with my result is normal skin with sensitive concerns.
0:07:57.1 Maggie: Interesting.
0:07:58.1 Ella: Interesting. Your skin type would be considered normal. You rarely experience breakouts, have small pores along the T-zone and typically experience a slight oily shine at the end of the day, a general approach is always best, particularly for normal skin types who generally do not suffer excessive dryness or oil. They didn't ask me anything about sensitivity.
0:08:19.2 Tracy: Yeah.
0:08:19.8 Ella: Like in the questions.
0:08:21.2 Tracy: Yeah, no, I believe that.
0:08:22.4 Ella: How did they get to this assumption, where was this determined from?
0:08:26.1 Tracy: What was it driving their sales, their marketing for their product, is it all about sensitive skin?
0:08:31.9 Ella: No. They have a full line, this particular website, this particular one has a bunch of different brands.
0:08:39.4 Tracy: Huh, okay.
0:08:41.1 Ella: And so there were... That would make sense.
0:08:41.2 Maggie: Generally, though these quizzes are for the consumer that has no clue, they need some direction, and I think we can all agree that consumerism is now so all about online. You don't go into the shop. You don't meet with anybody. People wanna do everything online. So if you have a little quiz that goes with your product, even if it's totally non-related, it's giving an outcome to somebody who can then say, perfect, this is exactly what I'm supposed to buy.
0:09:10.4 Tracy: The craziest part, that's so scary, and I'm sure I know, Ella, we're probably going this direction, but so now all of a sudden, depending on the consumer, they're gonna hang their hat on that and everywhere they go, everything they buy, everyone they talk to, they're gonna go, "Oh, I have sensitive skin, and I have very small pores in the T-zone, and I just want you to know that." Because everyone wants to feel so empowered and knowledgeable.
0:09:36.1 Ella: Normal skin with sensitive concerns and I could see... And I do see that as they come into the shop, a first time consultation is I have normal skin with sensitive concerns, I can't do retinols, I can't do pills. [laughter]
0:09:48.5 Tracy: Yeah, but see, they're taking it even to the next level and a consumer would, because they don't really know about the retinols, about the... They're just going, Yeah, I've heard other information over here that if you have sensitive skin that you shouldn't use retinol.
0:10:06.5 Ella: Well, let's tie that into our next little myth.
0:10:09.8 Tracy: Okay.
0:10:11.3 Ella: [chuckle] So now what I hear you saying all of the sudden, now they're an expert on their own skin.
0:10:17.0 Tracy: Heck yeah.
0:10:17.5 Ella: Right? I hear that.
0:10:18.0 Tracy: Yeah.
0:10:18.7 Ella: Okay, you guys, now I have the next question for you. Okay, I'm gonna ask the question on the count of three you say true or false, okay? Online forums are great places for skin care advice, both as a consumer and as a professional. One, two, three, true or false?
0:10:35.7 Maggie: True.
0:10:37.1 Ella: Nice. Alright.
0:10:38.9 Tracy: Well, I do agree with Maggie. It is probably true and false.
0:10:41.5 Ella: True and false.
0:10:42.8 Tracy: I lean towards true. If you know how to sort through. You can't take every single thing that every person says as Bible.
0:10:52.7 Ella: Yeah.
0:10:54.4 S1: Hey guys, stop. Let's take a quick break. Elleebana, Australian-born globally loved. Elleebana's story is simple. They love lashes and brows. They shoot for the stars and lift lashes to new heights. Their addiction is real, their passion is popping, and there is nothing more they crave then offering excellence, service and innovation in products. Elleebana, lash-lift allows you to offer your customers luscious lifted lashes that can last up to 12 weeks in one safe 20-minute treatment. Learn more at Elleebana-USA.com. Let's get back to the conversation.
0:11:37.0 Ella: I think that a lot of people do. And so what drew this question out was I was recently on Reddit. Have you guys... Do you guys spend much time on Reddit?
0:11:45.7 Tracy: Oh, that's a huge... You can go down a rabbit hole there.
0:11:48.2 Ella: And it is. [laughter] And there is this group, it's like skin care concerns, where like I have questions about my skin, there's a bunch of different groups, but one of them, I was like jaw on the floor with the advice, I was so upset.
0:12:00.2 Tracy: Oh my gosh, I'm dying. I'm on one edge, tell me what the advice was.
0:12:02.2 Ella: You name it, there was one that says, oh, this client had little bumps on their forehead, which would be closed comedones, obviously a moisture imbalance, in my opinion, hydration issue that we would have to examine, not an inflamed anything, no like ready-to-pop situation at all, and some of the advice was, "Oh, get the pimple patches."
0:12:24.6 Maggie: Interesting.
0:12:25.8 Tracy: For a bunch of...
0:12:27.0 Ella: Bumps.
0:12:27.6 Tracy: Bumps. Oh, no.
0:12:28.7 Ella: That will heal it overnight, and I'm like, "Are you kidding me?" [laughter]
0:12:31.9 Tracy: The salicylic acid patches, that wouldn't help.
0:12:34.9 Ella: No, in fact, it would make it worse potentially.
0:12:37.6 Tracy: Worse, yeah.
0:12:38.2 Ella: And then there was another one about hyperpigmentation and this was... The post was about hyperpigmentation, but it was really a darkening around the poster's neck.
0:12:46.8 Tracy: Ooh.
0:12:47.2 Ella: The original poster's neck. Well, here's the thing, that is such a slippery slope because there could be an underlying condition related to insulin, whether it's PCOS or precursor to diabetes, right? Way out of our scope.
0:13:01.2 Tracy: Mm-hmm.
0:13:02.0 Ella: Well, these people were like, "Oh, have you tried this acid and wash with... "
0:13:06.3 Tracy: Oh my.
0:13:06.7 Ella: What about lemon oil?
0:13:08.6 Tracy: And they weren't even seeing pictures of her skin or anything like that?
0:13:12.0 Ella: No, the pictures were on there.
0:13:13.0 Tracy: Oh, they were? Okay.
0:13:13.8 Ella: Unqualified people giving this advice.
0:13:15.9 Tracy: Right, uh-huh. No health intake there. [laughter]
0:13:19.0 Ella: Nothing. No questions or anything, or with acne what could be happening, or with sensitive skin, in particular, was like... That's horrible, that is horrible advice. "You know what, you should put... Oh, your skin is red and inflamed and flaky? I use retinol from... " [laughter] You know? A little layer or something.
0:13:36.5 Tracy: I don't know if... I don't know, maybe the general consumer would go to something like Reddit or... I just would hope that a consumer would pop into something that is specifically driven by professionals.
0:13:52.0 Maggie: You would hope.
0:13:52.5 Tracy: I would hope, yeah. Like WebMD, right? That is... You know that those are doctors.
0:13:58.9 Ella: I don't know that that's built other than in these Facebook groups.
0:14:01.9 Tracy: Yeah.
0:14:02.0 Ella: Or such, or like these social media groups unless there's...
0:14:04.2 Tracy: And then maybe they can't get into the social media groups if they're not a professional.
0:14:07.4 Ella: Professional.
0:14:08.5 Tracy: Ooh, snap, I think there's a business opportunity, ladies. [laughter]
0:14:12.4 Ella: Well, I think that there is a company out there that has that, it's like ran by estheticians to give advice, so I'm curious to watch how they grow.
0:14:20.3 Tracy: Oh, yeah.
0:14:21.3 Ella: Yeah, it's... I'll tell you guys after the podcast. [laughter] Before we plug them [laughter] let's do some more research.
0:14:27.3 Tracy: Okay, I like it.
0:14:28.1 Ella: But when you look at also professional to professional posts, you see things like, "You guys, I have this client and this is what he is presenting with acne." Let's say, like acne is a really common one, and you see all kinds of supplement advice.
0:14:43.5 Tracy: Mm-hmm.
0:14:44.4 Ella: They should be on zinc, they should be... Try not to do this, they should do this, and they should try this for skincare, here's the peels they should try, oh, try these procedures, what's the flaw with that?
0:14:58.1 Tracy: Well, I wanna...
0:15:00.5 Maggie: They haven't seen the skin, number one, they don't know the client, number two, and this is where I think that estheticians are failing to educate themselves, and I know that I've said this before, everyone thinks they are the expert and they wanna share their knowledge, but Ella, I think you can agree with me that when it comes to esthetics, there is a different approach for the same condition every time. Everyone has a different philosophy, and that also can be an error, so to speak. Even just with little bumps across the forehead, each esthetician is gonna have a different view about what's causing that and ways to treat that, and so for an esthetician to go to a forum, even if it is all professionals, they're gonna get bad advice guaranteed every time.
0:15:47.5 Ella: And it's also... I 100% agree with you. 100%.
0:15:50.4 Tracy: And I wanted to just mention before we get too far off of it, you mentioned supplements, that estheticians are mentioning supplements and diet and things. I think you can talk about the diets, but when you start getting into the supplements, realize that that is out of scope in many, many states. And if something were to happen... I know we talk about insurance and all that stuff, if something were to happen as it's relative to supplements, you wouldn't be covered because that's out of your scope. So, yes, you can sell retail products and they may happen to be supplements, but that would fall under your business license.
0:16:24.1 Ella: There's somebody recently, this sweet person posted, and she posted her business card and she said, "My mother and my mother-in-law both think I need to change it." It said "Jane Doe, holistic esthetician. Should I keep this or not?" And that was the question.
0:16:41.5 Tracy: Mm-hmm.
0:16:41.7 Ella: And it was because she was holistically-minded, and there's two inferences with holistic. Holistic being the inference I had when I was growing up, and this is the health food store, and the people who eat carob chips and Big Sky soda [laughter] versus somebody holistic meaning the whole person. So there's one side, and the other part was, she was saying that she does look at all those factors with her consultations and she wants somehow to reflect that, so you go and look in the comments and I watch closely because I commented. My comment was, "What does your state license say? Because I feel that that is what you should put on your business cards just to avoid any kind of issues."
0:17:19.5 Tracy: Yeah, I mean, you could name your business something like "Holistic Skincare" or "Holistic Spa" or what have you, but yeah, I think you should never make up a title.
0:17:31.2 Ella: Not unless there's an accreditation for that specifically, and there's not right now, but in there, what they were talking about, this one comment, it was like, "Oh woah, it's crazy," and I wish I had it verbatim, but let me just tell you the gist.
0:17:43.6 Tracy: Okay.
0:17:44.1 Ella: Basically, she was in school and her instructor was very holistic-minded, and so she gave her advice to get off of spironolactone. Oh my gosh, I can't even say it. [laughter] She told her you should get off your spironolactone for your acne, it's very commonly prescribed for that but it's actually adrenal suppressant, so it helps regulate a bunch of other things, so she got off of it. She was on it, not just for her acne but for her blood pressure, her blood pressure went up and a host of other problems.
0:18:15.8 Tracy: Oh my.
0:18:16.8 Ella: And so there's a great...
0:18:18.5 Tracy: Perfect example.
0:18:19.4 Ella: Well-intended, as it were, what a perfect example of why we need to stay in our lane. That's one thing that can happen with these things is that, to Maggie's point, you really don't know the whole story, what's going on and such. So that's what's wrong with this advice, but let's talk about what's right with that kind of advice.
0:18:38.0 Tracy: Okay, that sounds fun.
0:18:39.1 Ella: Yeah, so, I agree with both of you that it is true and false. So what's right with this advice is that, hey, somebody's seeking out advice. Right?
0:18:49.1 Tracy: Yeah, they're looking for consultation. That's a good thing.
0:18:51.8 Maggie: Yeah, I think it's a great way to bounce ideas and not look at it so much as you're gaining advice, but you should already have an idea in your mind of whatever you're looking for, if it's a way to treat your client, hopefully you already have that base knowledge and an understanding. And just say, I'm thinking about this versus this, what are your guys' ideas? And have an open mind in knowing that not everybody is an expert, but just getting some feedback, just collaborating, bouncing those ideas.
0:19:24.1 Tracy: I think you're spot on with that point, because I mean, a lot of times, you know, a solo aesthetician, he or she may be working in a treatment room all by themselves in a suite and not have any colleagues to bounce things off of. So, you know, you are gonna have to go out there and look for that. You can't just be operating in a bubble.
0:19:45.2 Ella: And take it with a grain of salt. Understand that that influence of the advice may come from the product lines that they use, may come from their experience, not to mention the part of the country that they're in, the training that they have, right? We have master's programs in Utah and Washington, which is way different than the requirements in other parts of the state. So they can do more, or the humidity... Climate is different. So keep that in mind. The other thing to think about is, as a consumer when you're asking advice on these things like Reddit or any other place where any observer can jump in and give advice, is that buying all these suggested products from untrained professionals can cost a lot of money. [laughter] So you may be like, I can't afford... There was one post that says, "I can't afford sunscreen anymore." Sad.
0:20:31.9 Tracy: Whoa.
0:20:32.7 Ella: "I can't afford sunscreen right now, does anybody have any suggestions?" Well, there was this suggestion and that suggestion, and if you were to try all those things that would be a lot of money. Like put all together would be $40 worth of a good quality sunscreen. Right? But the advice was given that, "TJ Max, they have some for $5" and I was like, I'm looking away.
0:20:51.0 Tracy: And they could be expired and it might not work at all.
0:20:53.7 Ella: I can't close this window. [chuckle] And the other thing is then, who do you trust with your skincare needs, is it a professional or perceivable peers? That's all, leaving that little nugget. Speaking of, let's ask question number three. Ready for this one?
0:21:10.7 Tracy: Yes.
0:21:11.6 Maggie: Ready.
0:21:12.6 Ella: Okay. You see a lot of this post especially in the professional realms, I did my research, I did all this research, and my research leads me to believe this. Okay. So this question is, online research is as easy as a Google search. One, two, three.
0:21:29.1 Tracy: True.
0:21:29.6 Maggie: False.
0:21:30.6 Ella: Both. [laughter]
0:21:31.1 Tracy: If everyone could see us right now, we're all looking at each other exchanging glimpse like, what?
0:21:38.0 Ella: True and false.
0:21:39.4 Tracy: Okay, yeah.
0:21:39.5 Ella: Because it depends on what you're looking at. And that's the point, right? Hyaluronic acid, I can't say it now [chuckle] without saying it that way, [chuckle] is one great one. You hear a lot of chatter about high molecular weight versus low molecular weight. And it's like two different camps. It's almost like a political argument at this point. [laughter]
0:21:56.5 Tracy: Are they getting it cancelled?
0:21:58.7 Ella: Which one is better, which one's worse? And that's because in my opinion, because of my research... [laughter] A 2016 article was published in a medical journal that talked about the way that you could track the permeability of different weights of hyaluronic acid. And that based on this very generic description, low molecular weight was able to penetrate through, high molecular weight stayed on the top of. And that absolutely could be true, but there's all these other studies that say otherwise. So to Maggie's point on Googling what you want to find out, yes. And the other thing is, someone asked a question and then posted their research. And it was an article from a brand, which is normal, right? Some of these brands have very...
0:22:43.2 Tracy: They Have robust information.
0:22:45.5 Ella: Absolutely.
0:22:46.0 Tracy: And very well written. And so some of it is very valuable.
0:22:50.0 Ella: But biased.
0:22:50.8 Tracy: But biased.
0:22:52.5 Maggie: Biased.
0:22:53.0 Ella: So being careful what you're looking at, what side are you on, are you looking at an article or a scientific article? A lot of times companies or articles or blog posts will cite the...
0:23:06.5 Tracy: Research.
0:23:06.6 Ella: The study. They'll either use a hyperlink or they'll have a research paper. Check that out too.
0:23:12.6 Tracy: And I would just say in that same vein, and if you're really looking for ingredient information, then you should just make sure you're a member and be getting on ASCP Skin Pro and see also to it that detail and information is cited and well researched so you know that it's coming from the goods.
0:23:33.4 Ella: Yes. I think also too, it's okay to do some research. Here's another one that I saw, "I was told CBD is dangerous."
0:23:42.7 Tracy: That's sad.
0:23:43.8 Ella: It's sad. And no other context, nothing else. And this was commented on a thread about a certain condition and people were giving advice, "Have you tried CBD for this?" And someone said, literally "I was told CBD is dangerous." No evidence to back it up, but that ensued another threat. What do you mean? How did you hear this? Da da da. I found the source of that. And it was someone who was talking about microneedling with a CBD serum. And that's what they were talking about granulomas and such, but again no evidence to back it up. So just keep in mind that. Ask for that in a nice way. You don't have to be like, prove it. [laughter]
0:24:20.6 Tracy: Or you could.
0:24:21.1 Ella: But you can say, do you mind sharing that source with me? That's very curious, I've never heard that before. Do you mind sharing? Because honestly not everyone commenting is the only people reading, there's people out there like myself. [laughter]
0:24:36.0 Tracy: Who are just creeping.
0:24:37.4 Ella: Creeping. [laughter] Yeah. Now listeners, we really wanna hear from you. What are your thoughts on internet advice? What do you think of self-proclaimed experts, giving skincare advice without training? Have you ever dished out advice without knowing the full story and how do you go about giving advice without a full consultation? Let us know, reach out on our social media platforms, especially Instagram and Facebook, or by emailing firstname.lastname@example.org. We want to know all the details, in the meantime, thank you for listening to ASCP Esty Talk. For more information on this episode or ways to connect with Maggie or myself, or to learn more about ASCP check out the show notes and stay tuned for the next episode of ASCP Esty Talk.
0:25:21.1 S1: Thanks for joining us today. If you like what you hear and you want more, subscribe. If you wanna belong to the only all inclusive association for aestheticians, that includes professional liability insurance, education, industry insights, and an opportunity to spotlight your sick skills, join @ascpskincare.com. Only $259 per year for all this goodness. ASCP knows, it's all about you.Page Break