From new trends to old favorites, “skin-fluencers” of 2023 are expecting to see a renewed focus on barrier repair, gentle, supporting ingredients, and a continued minimalist approach to skin health. In today’s episode of ASCP Esty Talk, Ella and Maggie discuss some of the more obscure skin care trends and ingredients we can expect to see in 2023.
ASCP Esty Talk with Maggie Staszcuk and Ella Cressman
Produced by Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP) for licensed estheticians, ASCP Esty Talk is a weekly podcast hosted by Maggie Staszcuk and Ella Cressman. We see your passion, innovation, and hard work and are here to support you by providing a platform for networking, advocacy, camaraderie, and education. We aim to inspire you to ask the right questions, find your motivation, and give you the courage to have the professional skin care career you desire.
About Ella Cressman:
Ella Cressman is a licensed esthetician, certified organic formulator, business owner, and absolute ingredient junkie! As an educator, she enjoys empowering other estheticians and industry professionals to understand skin care from an ingredient standpoint rather than a product-specific view.
She has spent many hours researching ingredients, understanding how and where they are sourced, as well as phytochemistry, histological access, and complementary compounds for intentional skin benefits. In addition to running a skin care practice, Cressman founded a comprehensive consulting group, the HHP Collective, and has consulted for several skin care lines, including several successful CBD brands.
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About Maggie Staszcuk:
Maggie has been a licensed esthetician since 2006 and holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from Stephens College. She has worked in the spa and med-spa industry and served as an esthetics instructor and a director of education for one of the largest schools in Colorado before coming to ASCP as the Advanced Modality Specialist.
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0:00:08.0 Maggie Staszcuk: Hello and welcome to ASCP's Esty Talk. I'm your co-host, Maggie Staszcuk an ASCP's Education Program Manager.
0:00:14.3 Ella Cressman: And I am Ella Cressman licensed esthetician, certified organic formulator, ingredient junky and content contributor for Associated Skincare Professionals.
0:00:23.8 MS: And today we have a shout-out to Sapora Miller, long-time listener, first-time caller. Hey Sapora.
0:00:30.9 EC: Hey Sapora, how are you? Thanks for listening.
0:00:34.5 MS: Thanks for listening. All right, 2022 saw a lot of skincare trends affecting our clients and grazing our treatment rooms. Thanks in part to social media, some of these trends were things like ingestible skincare, skin slugging skin fasting, and of course skinification of hair, just to name a few. But we aren't talking about these trends today. And instead we're focusing on those that are predicted to take over 2023.
0:01:03.7 EC: I can't wait. I know 2023 is gonna be so much, it's gonna be really interesting to see, all the things that are gonna come. And I'm very excited for a lot of reasons, like, come on, get here already.
0:01:14.8 MS: Yeah, for real. I think a lot of interesting things are coming our way. So first, more and more consumers are demanding sustainable beauty options. And I think some of that came out of COVID, a new trend that we're going to be seeing. And I think it's already here to some extent, but this is upcycled ingredients. It's also sometimes called byproduct beauty. So this is when brands are repurposing waste material into a cosmetic ingredient. And this is gonna be anything from food scraps, like leftover pulp from making juice to other byproducts. Like it could be from gin distillation, coffee grounds, seeds from, again, fruit vegetables, etcetera. So I think that's huge. That's really interesting to me. It kind of reminds me of like, if you're at home doing a DIY face mask.
0:02:05.9 EC: Oh, you had me at gin and coffee, like two top of my list here, 2023, bring it on.
0:02:11.8 MS: Right. For Real.
0:02:12.6 EC: In that order.
0:02:13.6 MS: Yeah.
0:02:14.8 EC: Gin and then coffee.
0:02:15.5 MS: There are companies actually specifically focused on this. So it's not just manufacturers that are going out and looking for the ingredients. There's one in particular, it's called Upcycled Beauty Company, and their mission is to raise awareness and grow the upcycled beauty movement.
0:02:30.9 EC: This reminds me of, and I know we've talked about it before, how like food trends lead skin trends. I mean, a lot of times, I mean, who's leading who, not sure, but how they, there's always this overlap, it seems, and it reminds me of a subscription based grocery service that I had, and they were upcycled food things. And so it was like the ins of fruit rollups, but they packaged it and I got, they were called fruit strips or something like that, or the bits and pieces of broken pretzels and just, broken hazel nuts, all these things. So what I love about this is that we're thinking not just about recycling, but upcycling and repurposing almost. So I'm excited to see where this goes because there's a lot of possibility there.
0:03:15.9 MS: There is. And, in the same vein as Upcycled Beauty, we're also going to be seeing companies coming out with like refillable packaging, so there's less waste as well. So a lot happening I think with sustainable beauty in general.
0:03:32.1 EC: And I think states are taking on certain requirements by, I don't know, let's just say 2025, I think it is. So a lot of companies are moving to having this certain type of packaging by that time. So it's gonna be a lot of fun. Of course you know, I'm a big fan of Hemp, but, I cannot wait for Hemp packaging. It's super sustainable, also compostable. And so I'm excited to see where that goes in this part, the sector. But I can't wait. I can't wait till we're talking about this again all year.
0:04:02.4 MS: Yeah. Lot's happening there. Exosomes are the next big thing in anti-aging. You may have heard that buzzword.
0:04:08.5 EC: I haven't.
0:04:09.3 MS: You haven't?
0:04:10.3 EC: I have not.
0:04:11.3 MS: Okay. I'm gonna explain to you what they are. So it's a bioactive substance and it is part of a cell that is basically responsible for transporting things out of the cell. So a good way to think of it is think of the cell like a factory, and they're the trucks leaving the cell factory with things like cell waste, for instance. So they also contain beneficial things like growth factors, lipids, proteins, from the host cell, and it is harvested from human adipose tissue traditionally, especially if exosomes are being used in the medical environment. For the skincare environment, I think I have read that this is gonna come more from cow. So you'll see things like bovine listed on your packaging. I'm not aware of any skincare company that is using human adipose tissue but really interesting. So exosomes are gonna be used for after procedures like microneedling. Traditionally we have seen peptides and stem cells being applied, and now this is just advancing that further. And now exosomes are being used after the procedure. And the idea is that it is just good anti-aging targeting the fine lines and wrinkles, boosting collagen, all the good things that we want after the procedure.
0:05:36.3 EC: So it sounds like it's taking stem cells, plant stem cells or the epigenetics of human stem cells and making them more concise. So drilling down or targeting on more, more specific things. I'm curious, how many categories does it fall into? Like you mentioned this, that, that, like, are they gonna have blank exosomes, X exosomes, Y exosomes? I think that would be really... Speaking of that concise target.
0:06:04.8 MS: Yeah, potentially. And if you're thinking of exosomes as like the truck that's carrying stuff, there's also talk about what can we put in that truck that can then carry it where we want it to go and provide beneficial delivery of something.
0:06:20.1 EC: Like epigenetics.
0:06:21.8 MS: Yeah, like epigenetics. Exactly.
0:06:23.3 EC: I can't wait. I love this stuff I geek out on, so I can't Wait.
0:06:26.1 MS: Yeah. Very interesting.
0:06:28.5 EC: Hold that thought. We'll be right back.
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0:07:55.7 EC: Okay, here we go. Let's get back to the podcast.
0:07:58.7 MS: While it may sound strange to some, another trend we may be seeing is colostrum making its way into skincare products, so for those of you that don't know, it's the first breast milk that the body produces during pregnancy.
0:08:14.6 MS: Historically, this has been used in the treatment of many ailments thanks to its lactoferrin content which is naturally antimicrobial, destroys pathogens, and its containing three special growth factors. Epithelial growth factor. Insulin-like growth factor. And transforming growth factor. So the idea in using this in skincare is that it helps create new skin tissue, muscles, nerves, so there's a lot of things, a lot of questions I have when I see this cropping up in skincare.
0:08:46.8 EC: But the thing that is curious to me is I wonder specifically with colostrum, is it going to be reproduced, like biotechnology is gonna reproduce it, for example, because I'm sure they have to find a way to do this, the components of it.
0:09:02.2 MS: Yeah, I'm sure it's donated. How are they maintaining the integrity of it once it goes into the product?
0:09:08.1 EC: Yeah. How does it stay stable? Lots of questions, but exciting. I know for nursing mothers, mother-to-child, that's one of the most important nutrient bombs that they get is the first one, and it makes sense because it helps cell growth and also regulate things like their immediate, like their child responses, hunger and so on and I can't wait to see where this one goes too. I know that breast milk for a long time has been used not the colostrums, but the breast milk for skin. For hair you see an old wife's tale for cradle cap, for example. I don't have kids, and I have never had breast milk, but I've had a lot of friends and they're like... I think wasn't it even Kim Kardashian or Courtney Kardashian was like, It'll do this. It'll do this. It'll help with everything probably.
0:09:56.6 MS: Yeah. Leave it up to the Kardashian.
0:09:58.4 EC: I'm Sure. But I've seen... I've heard of this before, so I'm excited to see. And then also, where are they getting it from? How are they gonna test it? Is this from pump and dumping?
0:10:10.2 MS: Right. Yeah.
0:10:10.7 EC: And so that would be awesome.
0:10:12.4 MS: Yeah. Very interesting. And I don't know, this might be one of those trends too that just kind of fizzles out.
0:10:18.1 EC: We'll see. Can't wait to check that one out.
0:10:20.4 MS: Yeah. All right. Another trend we may be seeing in 2023 are shrooms. They're having a moment right now. They're popping up everywhere and including in our skincare. So mushrooms, they are adaptogens, and in other words, that means they are helping our skin to adapt and mitigate stress. So there are several that you may find listed on your ingredient deck. The snow mushroom, also known as the Tremella mushroom is one of the most cultivated and most popular in skincare, specifically K beauty. So we've talked about K-Beauty before, in other podcasts, we're gonna see that now enter the US market, the Tremella mushroom is often referred to as the beauty mushroom.
0:11:00.7 MS: And it's just one of their many benefits, which is hydration, it has properties that are similar to hyaluronic acid. There is also the Reishi mushroom, and it's known as the mushroom of immortality. So according to Naturopathica founder and esthetician Barbara Close, when EN mushrooms like the Reishi and Shiitake help to strengthen the body's natural immunities, reducing skin sensitivity and improving resilience to environmental irritants. It's also reducing the look of inflammation, which is really interesting. It's encouraging cell regeneration and also working to protect the skin's barrier function, which is a major trend we've been seeing as well as focus on the barrier.
0:11:41.8 EC: I'm embarrassed. Let me tell you why Ella, like, let's say November, let's say September, October, November, December, 2019. Oh, 2020 is the year of the mushroom. Mark my words. Adaptogens are the next big thing. Mark my words. I said this maybe even more than half of 2019. And as you know, we're talking about 2023. So I might be a little bit off in my predictions, but these are some of my favorite things for a lot of reasons. So you mentioned internally and externally, but it does, these do help to adapt. Another good one... Another, the snow mushroom that you were talking about, another one that's been around for a long time another name for it, Silver Ear mushroom extract. So they're not new, right, as far as using them in products, but the way they're being discussed, adaptogenic, that's new. And that's I think gonna be the focus. Like you said, it helps to mitigate stress, so skin stress, and taking 'em internal. Another one is Lion's Mane is really good. So this, I'm glad they're finally having the moment. I can say I told you so I just might have been off a couple years.
0:12:53.0 MS: You're just ahead of the curve. Ella.
0:12:55.4 EC: Always. I'll take it, but yeah, so I love adaptogens especially for the topical use.
0:13:03.0 MS: Yeah. And I would say if you're not familiar with mushrooms, look it up, do some research, because it is so, so interesting. And I think that, if you envision in your mind what you think of a mushroom and like, for instance, the snow mushroom, go and Google that, do some research on its ability to absorb moisture. It is so fascinating because it's not what you think a mushroom is. It looks nothing like a traditional mushroom. And it really is truly fascinating. Its ability to pull moisture to the skin is super Cool.
0:13:33.9 EC: That's why I like to use it with hyaluronic. I like to use those two together because you know hyaluronic is going to pull moisture towards whatever is less. So that's why sometimes hyaluronic acid can be drying... Have a drying effect if there's more moisture there. So, that's one of the reasons. Other thing is, have you ever heard that mushrooms are aliens?
0:13:53.0 MS: I've never heard that.
0:13:55.8 EC: Yeah. Me, I have. We'll see. But I'll thank you extraterrestrial skincare. That might be a 2024 trend, but don't mark my words.
0:14:03.3 MS: Now, listeners, we wanna hear from you. What trends are you adding to your menu in 2023? Share your thoughts with us on social media by commenting on our Instagram or Facebook posts, or by emailing firstname.lastname@example.org. Thank you for listening to ASCP Esty Talk. And for more information on this episode or for ways to connect with Ella and myself, or to learn more about ASCP, check out the show notes.