This episode is all about “Eww”! From eyebrow implants to animal byproducts, we explore procedures, therapies, and ingredients both new and old that all hold the promise of youthful restoration.
About Tiffany McLaughlin:
Tiffany McLaughlin has a BS from the University of Utah and is a licensed master esthetician and instructor. With over 20 years of industry experience, Tiffany has become an educator for estheticians, nurses, and physicians. Her position as an educational trainer and consultant has enabled her to understand the needs of both educational facilities and large and small spa businesses. As an experienced presenter and published author, Tiffany has developed treatments, protocols, and manuals for the professional and student. Her diversified talents as an educator and esthetician allowed her to help market skin care throughout the United States and internationally. Having a family in pharmaceuticals has allowed Tiffany to also have a firm understanding of skin science and ingredients. Tiffany is a member of Lira Clinical’s executive education team. She resides in Utah with her husband and four children enjoying the outdoors and theater.
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About Ella Cressman:
Ella Cressman is a licensed esthetician, certified organic formulator, business owner, and absolute ingredient junkie! As an educator, she enjoys empowering other estheticians and industry professionals to understand skin care from an ingredient standpoint rather than a product-specific view.
She has spent many hours researching ingredients, understanding how and where they are sourced, as well as phytochemistry, histological access, and complementary compounds for intentional skin benefits. In addition to running a skin care practice, Cressman founded a comprehensive consulting group, the HHP Collective, and has consulted for several skin care lines, including several successful CBD brands.
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About our Sponsor: Antedotum
Antedotum founder Karina Perez Marconi was raised on the island of Puerto Rico (born to a Cuban dad and Puerto Rican mom), which meant consistent sun exposure from an early age—and cumulative sun damage for the Latina’s olive skin. For decades, Marconi was plagued by dark spots, which were compounded by lingering, postpartum melasma after the birth of her daughter, Havana. Working for many years in beauty at Chanel’s New York headquarters deepened Marconi’s understanding of premium skin care. But finding an antidote to her skin aliments remained elusive. When the family relocated to Aspen, Colorado, the unforgiving mountain climate of dry air, high altitude, wind, sun, and cold only intensified her skin conditions.
Colorado is where Marconi took her curiosity of CBD and its purported curative abilities and started to sample an assortment of oils and balms. None of them smelled or looked great, but to her surprise, her skin started to transform. This unexpected discovery evolved into Antedotum.
As seen on The Today Show: youtu.be/xNcCuQE1Qjc
About our Sponsor: Purafil
Purafil, established in 1969, is proud to protect people, processes, and environments worldwide. We manufacture revolutionary products that set the standards in our industry. Our focus is to create the world’s best air purification products to make your life and business better. We are dedicated to making the world safer, healthier, and more productive.
About our Sponsor: Sorella Apothecary
Sorella Apothecary is a professional skin care line that combines the best of modern-day science with natural, old world philosophies. The line is created for the esthetician by the esthetician. Botanically based, the results-driven product line is made for multiple skin types. Every ingredient is hand-picked with a less-is-more approach to deliver the best, most effective results. Sorella Apothecary believes in real results and achieving those results without compromising the skin’s integrity. Sorella translates to “sister” in Italian and the brand gets its name from its co-founders, Danielle and Emily, who are sisters by marriage.
Visit www.sorellaapothecary.com for more information and follow us on:
About Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP):
Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP) is the nation’s largest association for skin care professionals and your ONLY all-inclusive source for professional liability insurance, education, community, and career support. For estheticians at every stage of the journey, ASCP is your essential partner. Get in touch with us today if you have any questions or would like to join and become an ASCP member.
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0:00:00.0 Speaker 1: Antedotum is a dermatologist and esthetician improve CBD skincare brand that is featured in some of the country's most prestigious day spas and integrated by estheticians into their services, creating a must-have for their clients daily skin regimen. The company's proprietary formulas are 100% clean, plant-based, responsibly sourced in the USA, never animal tested and features its own potent 500 milligram full spectrum CBD complex. As the only CBD skincare brand with a medical advisory board comprised of dermatologist researchers, Antedotum is undertaking the groundbreaking efficacy of the Antedotum CBD complex as a skincare ingredient. Antedotum products are multi-functional and multi-correctional made for all skin types and sensitive skin, use them alone or combine them into your routine.
0:00:48.3 S1: You've trained your staff, set up hand sanitizing stations and provided surface wipes, now it's time to complete your infection prevention protocol today by effectively cleaning the air and providing peace of mind to your clients. Purafil technology removes harmful airborne contaminants and odours from sensitive environments around the world, they are trusted to protect IVF clinics, hospitals, salons, and even the priceless art in the Sistine Chapel. The PuraShield 500 is engineered with a multi-stage filtration system that removes 99.999% of aerosols carrying viruses and can clean the air every 10 minutes in an average-sized esthetician's environment, patented by Purafil, a market leader in air filtration for over 50 years. Visit purafil.com and check out their indoor air quality equipment to learn more, and log on to ascpskincare.com to view your exclusive membership discounts.
0:01:44.7 S1: You are listening to ASCP Esty Talk, where we share insider tips, industry resources and education for estheticians at every stage of the journey. Let's talk 'cause ASCP knows it's all about you.
0:02:00.1 Ella Cressman: Hello and welcome to ASCP Esty Talk, the Ingredient Decked Out series. Here we explore the fascinating world of ingredients and how they work within the skin. I'm Ella Cressman, a licensed esthetician and owner of the HHP Collective. I am also a certified organic skincare formulator and total and complete ingredient junkie. So, today is gonna be fun. We are going to nod to progress and tip a hat to ingenuity. I say this all the time, but we truly work in an ever-evolving industry, there's always a new ingredient to try or a new way of incorporating something old, a new procedure, a new device, and so on, but today we're gonna look at some old and current solutions or procedures that may leave you wondering, what the heck. We are joined by a consummate industry professional whose passion for skincare and education is inspiring.
0:02:55.2 EC: Tiffany McLaughlin is a Bachelors of Science from the University of Utah and is a licensed master esthetician and instructor. A licensed instructor, I should emphasise that, 'cause I don't think that's emphasised enough, which is a pretty big deal in Utah and the United States, really. With over 20 years of industry experience, Tiffany has become a master esthetician and educator for estheticians, nurses and physicians. Her position as an educational trainer and consultant has enabled her to understand both the needs of educational facilities as well as both large and small spa businesses. As an experienced presenter and published author, Tiffany has developed treatments, protocols and manuals for both the professional and the student. Her diversified talents as an educator and esthetician allow her to help market skincare throughout the United States and internationally. Having a family in pharmaceuticals has allowed Tiffany to also have a firm understanding of skin science and ingredients. Tiffany is a member of Lira Clinical's Executive Education Team, and she resides in Utah with her husband and four children, enjoying the outdoors and theatre. Welcome, Tiffany.
0:04:02.4 Tiffany McLaughlin: Thank you, I'm so excited to be here today with you Ella.
0:04:05.5 EC: I'm excited too, and I want to start out by sharing the story about the inspiration behind this podcast. So, we were chatting, and I was explaining what I thought was really cool, which was the fact that there's an industry professional who's remarkable on a lot of levels, and one of them was that she has eyebrow implants, they had taken hair from the back of her head and put it in her eyebrows, and she had to trim her eyebrow hair every day, and to which Tiffany shared a story with me that I think inspired this [chuckle] podcast. Tiffany, would you like to take it from there?
0:04:48.5 TM: So, my mother has actually struggled with skin cancer for a little over 20 years, primarily on her face as well as on the top of her head, so she has a very good relationship with her reconstructive plastic surgeon because of it. And at one point she was in the office not too long ago, waiting for an appointment, and he was late, apologised for his tardiness, but was very excited at the progress that he had with another patient. And this patient, she had actually been in a really bad car accident, and her orbital bone around her eye had been smashed. Therefore, he had to replace the skin as well as her eyebrow, and she did have an eye implant because of it. And in order to make her eyebrows more symmetrical on her face, he took a graft of hair from her pubic line, and the reason why [chuckle] he took the hair there, my mother was quite inquisitive, was because of the actual texture of the hair, as well as its growth cycle is very, very similar to eyebrow hair. So, that's where he grafted it and the graft had taken very, very nicely, and she was very, very happy with the actual, the way that her brows were starting to fill in and her face was starting to heal. So, yes, that's where they graft a lot of eyebrow hair now to remake an eyebrow for people.
0:06:23.2 EC: Fascinating. When Tiffany told me the story, I was like, "What? Holy cow." I mean, they say that necessity is the mother of invention, but this gives a whole new meaning to bushy brows. [chuckle]
0:06:35.3 TM: Yes, absolutely, and that's where I thought, "Okay," as I was starting to process it, where we look... When you think about it, if you are a wax client, they come in, they come in every about four-to-six weeks, what have you, and they're getting their eyebrows waxed, they get their bikini line waxed the same time. So, in that regard, it makes absolutely perfect sense, but...
0:06:58.7 EC: Totally.
0:07:00.1 TM: The hair down there is pristine is the correct term that we would want to use, but definitely, once again, the texture, the color of the hair, all of that, is very, very similar.
0:07:13.4 EC: That's fascinating. Amazing, and I think, when you first told me, I was like, "Oh my God, gross," but then when you think about it, it makes total sense and we want to then give a nod... Doctor Tom, right? You said Doctor Tom?
0:07:24.4 TM: Doctor Todd Cook, yep.
0:07:25.7 EC: Oh, Todd.
0:07:26.2 TM: That's her. [chuckle]
0:07:26.8 EC: Doctor Todd Cook...
0:07:28.3 TM: We call him Doctor Todd. [chuckle]
0:07:30.4 EC: Doctor Todd, way to go. Hey, guys, stop. Let's take a quick break.
0:07:36.5 S1: Sorella Apothecary is a botanically-based professional skincare line that is the perfect balance of science and nature. Created for the esthetician by the esthetician, Sorella supports their partners by offering monthly educational webinars, in-depth product knowledge sessions, seasonal protocols, and unique training on new products. Professional partners also have full-access to marketing materials and customer service support to help build and evolve their business. Feed your skin, treat your soul. If you're interested in learning more about partnering with Sorella, email firstname.lastname@example.org.
0:08:19.2 EC: Let's get back to the conversation. So, let's talk about something else, kind of... This is, now, we're going back in the past, and we're gonna talk about... Peeling has been around for a long time, but we're gonna talk about peeling. [laughter] What it means to be chemically peeled, and where that started. So, Tiffany, let's talk about that. Let's talk about historical chemical peeling molecules, ingredients, acids.
0:08:52.6 TM: Yeah, so most of the time when we do think of ancient chemical peeling, the first thing that comes to mind is most people are like, "Oh, Cleopatra, she would take her take her milk baths. She would bathe in it. She would use the lactic acid. She had beautiful white skin." Yes, however, in the Eastern European countries, they would actually take urine and put it on their face, utilising those uric acid properties to help tighten the skin, and brighten the skin, as well. So, they would take that and apply it all over the face, massage it in. But that is some of their kind of ancient secretive anti-aging beauty tips, as well.
0:09:40.2 EC: Well, we know now, right? We can work backwards. We know this works, this molecule, glycolic acid or lactic. Well, sorry. Talk about lactic since you talked about milk baths.
0:09:48.8 TM: Sure.
0:09:51.7 EC: But that they... How'd they work back... [chuckle] We know what lactic is. We know that it has this molecular structure. We know that because of science but they didn't have science back then. So, how would they... So, it would make sense, we have uric acid in foot foam that help with hydration, but how would uric acid... How'd they come up with that? How were they like, "You know what, I got a good idea."
0:10:16.3 TM: They did use uric acid or urine, as you will, in a variety of different ways. Just look at the creativity, or out of necessity that they would need to do things, where I know that sometimes when they were taking... When women would actually dye clothing, they would use the urine to set the dye in the actual clothes. So, it was used in a variety of different ways. So, for skin care, how they decided that it tightened the face, I'm not entirely sure.
0:10:49.5 EC: Maybe the splash back from dying... [chuckle]
0:10:53.7 EC: These cheeks look great.
0:10:54.7 TM: Hey, it's always so nice and even skin-toned over there, maybe we should try it on the face. Not really sure about that.
0:11:03.3 EC: Maybe.
0:11:04.3 TM: But that's where, yeah. But that's where...
0:11:06.2 EC: Similar with tartaric acid in grapes, stomping of the grapes.
0:11:09.5 TM: Absolutely, yeah. I mean, the French have known that and have utilised that tartaric acid with their wine facials and wine treatments. They use it, basically, tartaric acid from head to toe. They're not just targeting on the face, or targeting the entire body with those various body treatments.
0:11:28.5 EC: They probably figured that out from stomping grapes for wine.
0:11:31.4 TM: Absolutely. Look how fabulous my feet look, no need for a pedi here.
0:11:35.3 EC: I've got some pretty feet, let's see if my face can look this good... [chuckle] Oh, it's great. Oh the other thing, too, that is gross from old times is the birth of phenol peels.
0:11:48.3 TM: And that was similar with the Eastern European population, that they would take both blood, as well as faeces, and utilise it on the face once again with those...
0:12:01.7 EC: In Europe.
0:12:02.7 TM: More natural, I guess you would want to say, properties of a phenol peel, applying it to the face, allowing it to kind of use those properties to peel the face to give it a smoother texture.
0:12:17.8 EC: I don't even wanna think about how they came up with that one. But that I know that they...
0:12:21.1 TM: I'm not really sure.
0:12:22.1 EC: They had secret recipes that they would pass from village to village that included... I can just imagine, one cup poop, two cups pee, [chuckle] and two ounces of blood, or whatever they did, however it was. I don't even wanna think about it. I'll opt in for the tartaric acid. [chuckle]
0:12:39.9 TM: We do have our PRP facials, our plasma, our vampire facials all today, now, that we do know works beautifully and amazing, and are extremely popular within the medi-spa market right now.
0:12:53.4 EC: I wonder if that was the inspiration. [chuckle]
0:12:55.2 TM: That I don't know.
0:13:00.6 EC: Now, let's talk about something else. Let's talk about something that's been super popular, and when I think about this and what I heard about this, 'cause we talked about this last week, too, and when you said it, I was like... I said, I'm like, "Connolli." I just saw Ace Ventura from Pet Detective in my head, running out of a cave, but you're like, "Bird poop facials."
0:13:23.3 TM: Yes.
0:13:23.9 EC: And I was like, "What the heck is a bird poop facial?"
0:13:26.7 TM: Yeah, so in the Asian markets, they actually take nightingale droppings. They collect the droppings, and then they allow it to dry, so it's in a powder-type form, and then they apply it to the face for its enzymatic properties, as well as with the guanine that is in it, which is, once again, it's supposed to help tighten up the skin, brighten the skin, has those wonderful anti-inflammatory properties. Now, with that, how scientifically proven it is? Not really sure on that, but that's where you can also see the fact that a lot of women today are willing to try whatever they need to in order to get the latest craze, the latest trend, and have their face look bright and beautiful.
0:14:17.8 EC: I don't know, man. It's...
0:14:19.2 TM: For today's market.
0:14:20.3 EC: Bird poop facials, brightening, tightening, or frightening? [chuckle]
0:14:24.1 TM: I'm gonna go with frightening. I am not a fan of birds at all. They're just not my favourite animal, and I prefer my cute, furry dog to pet. [chuckle]
0:14:35.3 EC: No, I know.
0:14:36.4 TM: That's my preference, but yes, that's how they grind it to a powder, and then they activate it, and then they apply it to the face and allow it to completely dry. Smell-wise...
0:14:46.8 EC: Like a mud mask?
0:14:47.7 TM: I'm just not sure. Too close to the nose, too close to the mouth.
0:14:51.1 EC: But does bird poop stink? I've never even thought about that. I don't wanna know. I don't wanna know.
0:14:55.4 TM: I think if you get enough of it, it does. [chuckle] I mean, if you've ever driven past a chicken farm or a turkey farm...
0:15:03.1 EC: Oh, true that.
0:15:03.8 TM: Let me tell you, it's not a pleasant smell sometimes when the wind blows just right.
0:15:09.2 EC: That's true. Fair. I didn't even think about that. I was thinking more of like stuff on my windshield [chuckle], it's a nice picture.
0:15:16.8 TM: Get your nose right up in there and smell that pigeon dropping.
0:15:21.3 EC: Next time. Speaking of the Asian market, now the Asian market has been, especially in recent times, an inspiration for ingenuity, if you will, and so we've seen snail by-products come from Korean beauty lines, or we've seen actual application of snails in Japanese facials, like really teensy-tiny ones, but you stumbled upon something that is crazy interesting.
0:15:45.3 TM: So yeah, they use large African land snails, so these are not your escargots or your normal garden snails that you pull off of your petunias in the front of your yard. These babies, their actual shells are almost like the size of an apple. They're huge.
0:16:08.3 EC: These are big old snails.
0:16:09.0 TM: And they're live, and they actually place them on the face, alive, and they wiggle, for lack of a better word [chuckle], all over the place. So they are supposedly eating up the surfaced dead skin cells, but the residue that they leave on the skin helps to tighten and stimulate collagen...
0:16:34.9 EC: So exfoliating and peptides, maybe?
0:16:37.2 TM: Yes, so that actual snail slime, as you will, helps to tighten and stimulate collagen. Some women swear it works better than Botox, but I prefer not to have an animal wiggling around on my face, so that's just kind of my personal preference.
0:16:57.1 EC: Unless it's my dog, 'cause she's so cute. [chuckle] Yeah, I'm with you, nothing slimy.
0:17:04.2 TM: No, no, not into the slime, not into the slime.
0:17:07.1 EC: So it's a snail by-product that stimulates the collagen.
0:17:10.8 TM: Yes. So yes, so where the snail is actually on the face eating up the dead skin, but then you also have that by-product that they leave on the skin that helps to tighten up the skin up and stimulate the collagen.
0:17:26.0 EC: I'm getting the heebie jeebies, but, speaking of by-products, you also shared with me another fascinating fact that I was just like, jaw on the floor, like really had no idea, and I'm a formulator. I've also made makeup, [chuckle] so... What you shared with me about animal renderings was fascinating.
0:17:47.0 TM: Yes, so a lot of the animal renderings, a lot of your, how will you say, used grease, from your butcher shops, even sometimes from not so much your fast food restaurants anymore, but mostly from animal renderings that they will sell those to cosmetic laboratories to help make makeup, so that's their primary surfactant a lot of the times that you will find in lipsticks, in cream blushes, a lot of your cream products, even some foundations, depending upon how they're formulated. If they're in a pancake form, they will use those animal by-products because it gives that sheen, that gloss, but it also adheres to the skin because of the similar chemical composition.
0:18:38.5 EC: That's interesting. I wonder what it would be listed as on the ingredient day.
0:18:43.1 TM: Technically, if it says there's no animal by-products in the actual cosmetic packaging, then yes, then they should not be using it, but most of your OTC makeup companies, cosmetic companies, are still using some form of animal rendering by-product within their actual products because it's cheap, and they have the ability to mass-produce it without compromising that stability of the actual product.
0:19:16.4 EC: Fascinating. I personally use vegan products, [chuckle] so I feel like I don't even have to check...
0:19:21.3 TM: Mineral's the only way to go, baby. [chuckle]
0:19:23.0 EC: Mineral and vegan. Well, thank you, Tiffany. It's been so nice having you on here. What a fascinating episode of, "Ew, Not On My Face."
0:19:33.7 TM: Ew.
0:19:35.2 EC: Ew. [chuckle] Thank you for listening to ASCP Esty Talk. For more information on this episode, or for ways to connect with Tiffany, myself, or to learn more about ASCP, check out the show notes, and stay tuned for our next episode of Ingredient Decked Out.
0:19:50.7 TM: Thanks, Ella.
0:19:51.3 EC: Thank you.
0:19:53.1 S1: Thanks for joining us today. If you like what you hear and you want more, subscribe. If you wanna belong to the only all-inclusive association for estheticians that includes professional liability insurance, education, industry insights, and an opportunity to spotlight your six skills, join at ascpskincare.com, only $259 per year for all this goodness. ASCP knows it's all about you.