It’s National CBD Day! Today we celebrate three little letters that have had a huge impact on cannabis acceptance. There is so much to learn and, in some cases, so much to un-learn about this popular ingredient. In this podcast we review what CBD is, and explore five things CBD is NOT!
CBD is not:
About Ella Cressman:
Ella Cressman is a licensed esthetician, certified organic formulator, business owner, and absolute ingredient junkie! As an educator, she enjoys empowering other estheticians and industry professionals to understand skin care from an ingredient standpoint rather than a product-specific view.
She has spent many hours researching ingredients, understanding how and where they are sourced, as well as phytochemistry, histological access, and complementary compounds for intentional skin benefits. In addition to running a skin care practice, Cressman founded a comprehensive consulting group, the HHP Collective, and has consulted for several skin care lines, including several successful CBD brands.
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Meet Toshiana Baker, the founder of NMSWP.
Toshiana is a licensed esthetician who grew into an international educator, traveling globally to facilitate spa and beauty-related programs that she created. At one time, she led a team of 250+ estheticians nationally as the Director of Esthetics for an iconic luxury spa chain with over 30 locations. She was also the Regional Operations Director of four full-service spa/salons, including two inside of Saks Fifth Avenue and the Education Executive for the iconic brow artistry brand Anastasia Beverly Hills. Toshiana also held positions of leadership at other luxury influencer brands in spa, cosmetics, and retail. In 2016, she left the corporate space to become a full-time entrepreneur who parlays her wealth of experience to help small business owners, solo practitioners and independent brands grow and scale.
Seeing a gap in the spa and wellness space for support, professional development, resources, and education for those of diverse backgrounds, she founded the Network of Multicultural Spa and Wellness Professionals (NMSWP) to be the gap filler. More than that, she wanted to create a community that feels like a “tribe to thrive” and to be a beacon of light and excellence for the spa and wellness industry.
About Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP):
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0:00:00.1 Ella Cressman: This podcast is sponsored by LAMPROBE. LAMPROBE is a popular esthetic tool that enables skin care practitioners to rapidly treat a wide variety of common minor skin irregularities, or MSI. Red MSI treated by LAMPROBE include dilated capillaries and cherry angiomas. Yellow MSI, cholesterol deposits and sebaceous hyperplasia. And brown MSI treated includes skin tags and more. LAMPROBE MSI treatments are non-invasive and deliver immediate results. LAMPROBE can empower your skin practice with these new and highly in-demand services. For more information, visit lamprobe.com. That's L-A-M-P-R-O-B-E dot com. And follow LAMPROBE on social media @lamprobe.
0:00:51.4 Speaker 2: Are you an esthetician that has felt unsupported or under-represented in the industry? Have you felt isolated once you left school and have seen others making strides, but are unsure how to make this happen for yourself? Do you feel that if you had education, resources, and access provided to others that you could kill the game? We are exactly what your career has been missing. Join the Network of Multicultural Spa and Wellness Professionals, a community to help you go from simply surviving to thriving. Visit www.nmswp.com to explore our membership options for individual professionals, students, schools, and corporations or groups.
0:01:38.9 EC: You are listening to ASCP Esty Talk, where we share insider tips, industry resources, and education for estheticians at every stage of the journey. Let's talk 'cause ASCP knows, it's all about you.
0:01:54.2 EC: Hello, and welcome to ASCP Esty Talk. I am your host, Ella Cressman. I am a licensed esthetician, certified organic formulator, owner of the HHP Collective, and a total and complete ingredient junkie. And today, we celebrate National CBD Day. That means we pay homage to one incredible ingredient that has been rocking the consumer world for the past few years. Now, by now, we have all heard of CBD and have a general idea of what it is, but let's just review a few key points. CBD is short for cannabidiol. Cannabidiol is a cannabinoid, a phytocannabinoid to be exact. Cannabinoids are found in several plants, but mostly and predominantly in cannabis where they were first identified and thus named after.
0:02:49.5 EC: Along with cannabinoids, terpenes are the largest classification of naturally occurring chemical compounds, and many can be found in cannabis. Cannabis terpenes, and cannabinoid content is largely influenced from environmental factors, like how much sun they get, what is the wind like, how much rain they get during the growing season, and perceived threats like predators, insects, so on. Cannabinoids are either phyto, meaning they come from plants, or endogenous or endo, meaning they come from the body. Both phyto and endocannabinoids, along with terpenes, communicate with the human endocannabinoid system, and they do that to elicit a physiological response, but what response? Well, that depends on the specific cannabinoid, or cannabinoids, or terpenes, and it also depends on the method of application. So from relaxation with CBN and linalool, to paranoia perhaps from too much THC, back to calm with CBD and maybe beta-caryophyllene.
0:04:00.3 EC: These are just a few of the effects on the central nervous system, and something that you've probably heard a lot about because research, I say research loosely, meaning Google search, [chuckle] will often pull these terms up or lead you to articles about these effects. It is important to understand the actual function of any ingredient. Can we all agree on that? So let's review the chemical components found in cannabis and how they influence skin function, how they're relevant to our scope of practice. So concerning the skin, cannabinoids and terpenes can be classified as antioxidants, fighting free radical assault, or as powerful anti-inflammatory agents. They normalize oil production and they even regulate cell production. That's what cannabinoids are, and that's what CBD could potentially do.
0:04:57.8 EC: So now let's get into five things that CBD is not. First and foremost, CBD is not plural. I often hear people refer to the CBDs, kind of like ordering a Coke in the south, where you order a Coke, and they say, "Great, what kind?" Not the same here. CBD is a molecule, it's a very specific molecule with a very specific chemical structure, and it has a unique identifying name, cannabidiol. So this "CBDs" term is thrown out to mean cannabinoids, which are different. Now, I can see how that can happen because cannabinoids and cannabidiol, they're really close, but not the same. CBD is a major cannabinoid, but out of over, I think, at the last count, there was 116 cannabinoids found in the cannabis plant alone.
0:05:58.0 EC: The CBD content is sometimes upwards of 40%, and I say upwards, 'cause there's not an exact amount. As we mentioned before, the plant constitution, the chemical composition is dependent on a couple of factors, so whether the plants are grown indoors in a controlled environment or grown outdoors could influence. Also different cultivars, as what they're referred to as, will have different cannabinoid profiles and terpene profiles. CBD is not an oil. This is something that I believe started because early on with the introduction of CBD into both the marijuana and the hemp markets, there was extraction methods that ended up with a crude... It looked like an oil, but then early formulations included an oil and there we go, a CBD oil. They were very simple formulations, and they worked.
0:07:01.7 EC: Most of the time, these simple formulations included some form of extract, whether it was full spectrum or isolate and an oil. And that is something that lends to its efficacy, but CBD itself is not an oil. The molecular structures of cannabinoids and oils are very, very different, but they are, in fact really good friends in that, one, oils, especially essential fatty acids, help cannabinoids penetrate and then communicate. Again, depending on the method of application, this is especially true when you're ingesting, think of soft gel caps, for example, those are... Or a tincture, those are usually inclusive in a base of MCT hemp seed, some sort of an oil, and that is to allow bioavailability. Or talking about topical application, that is also important because it allows access through the acid mantle or our barrier function, oils and terpenes.
0:08:09.6 EC: The next thing is, CBD is not illicit. I get this question a lot. Well, early on, so you have to understand that I've been using CBD, hemp-derived CBD in my practice since 2015, which was the dawning of time as concerning topical CBD from hemp. And early on, it was so funny, it was very interesting, the responses from my clients in that I got everything from people looking side to side as... Mind you, we're the only two people in the room. They're looking side to side and almost whispering behind the back of their hand like, "Hey, can I get some of that CBD stuff," or, "Tell me more about CBD," or... A real fear based around it. So early on, I had to do a lot more education.
0:09:00.1 EC: It seems now, in 2021, on National CBD Day, that there is a broader understanding, and we have a lot of people to thank for that, really a lot of these pioneering companies that started in the beginning that helped to work through stigma and such, but check out an earlier podcast for more information on that, but... And it's not illicit, it's not illegal, it's not illegal, we should say federally, federally, meaning in the United States. It's acceptable to have products made with extracts from industrial hemp as long as they fall within that definition, that threshold of 3/10 percent THC or less. So if you're dealing with the product that has isolate, then it's nothing you have to worry about, or a product that has full spectrum, looking at lab reports to make sure that they stay under that designation is key.
0:10:00.2 EC: On that note, speaking of full spectrum and isolate, it's important to note that CBD is not a loner. There is a huge debate in this sub-sect of our industry or in the CBD space on isolate versus full spectrum. As a review, isolate is a single molecule and full spectrum is a kind of a broad loosey-goosey term, it's not completely accurate because of extraction method. So isolate would mean one isolated molecule, so it's gone through an extraction process and then isolated down, refined down to one molecule. Full spectrum is when there has been extraction to a point that is either full plant extraction, meaning there are still plant waxes, terpenes and other compounds including cannabinoids, or it's also used to describe another refined point where it's just cannabinoids.
0:11:06.5 EC: The problem with saying full spectrum, in my opinion, is that it's misleading to the point of people who believe in whole plant medicine, and it's misleading because there are components, there are terpenes lost and there are cannabinoids lost in CO2 and ethanol extraction methods. So one true way to stay true full spectrum would be lipid extraction, which up until recently wasn't an industrious option because there wasn't a scaled opportunity for large batch extraction, meaning you could do it in a crock-pot with some olive oil into small amounts at the same time, but the quantity, the concentration was not predictable. But there has been, in the last four years, three or four years, some advancements in large-scale lipid extraction methods where you are getting more predictable results and you're able to preserve more components. So it's very exciting. Keep an eye out for that.
0:12:16.9 EC: But in the meantime, just understand that isolate versus full spectrum is a passion position, they are both right, they work, kind of. To say that CBD works by itself needs further explanation, because you couldn't just take CBD isolate, rub it on your face and expect that your oil production would normalize or expect that you're going to have some kind of effect on melanogenesis. And that's because it's not getting through the door of the club, if you will. So rubbing CBD isolate on your face, on your skin, or even just ingesting CBD isolate is not going to be effective. And the reason is because, as mentioned, CBD is not a loner, it needs friends, it needs friends to communicate. But that being said, it doesn't have to be this full spectrum or full plant extraction. And the reason is because there's a lot of variables, as we mentioned previously, depending on how the hemp is grown, there could be a lot of different profile opportunity.
0:13:30.0 EC: So if you're using isolate and you want predictable results, you can create what's called the entourage, and that is a term coined by a scientist who said these components communicate more effectively when they're together than when it's by itself. The problem with the entourage effect ideology is that it's been miscommunicated or misunderstood and then relayed incorrectly. If you want to check out, Dr. Ethan Russo has done a lot of research on... Modern research in the last five years even, on the entourage effect or specifically combining certain cannabinoids together, like CBD, CBN, CBV, THV, but with other terpenes. And terpenes, the way that terpenes communicate or enhance communication with cannabinoid is key.
0:14:26.8 EC: So something that he talks about in a 2015 paper published is specific to dermatology advancement, he's talking about CBD and linalool and the effects, the positive effects on acne specifically. And he's done some more research on other cannabinoids and other terpenes, so it's a lot of if-thens up until this research has confirmed. So putting that together is key. You're still having an entourage, this is like two of them, still are three of them, three people hanging out, three homies, if you will, but it's not necessarily full spectrum. So isolate can still be effective if it's paired with either another essential fatty acid, then you have some efficacy, or terpenes. And terpenes are amazing, they're a very fascinating subject, seems like it's a new word, but actually terpenes... We've been using in skin care for a long time. Another podcast on terpenes might be in order. [chuckle]
0:15:31.7 EC: Something else to think about is, CBD is not novelty, and it's not a gimmick. This is important to understand for a few reasons, and I'm a little nervous about declaring this thought process that I've had for a long time, because there's a whole sub-industry set up around this one ingredient. The definition of novelty is the quality of being new, original or unusual. The fact is, we have been using cannabis as human beings for thousands and thousands of years. What is new is the understanding, what is new is the lifting of the stigma, but cannabis itself including CBD, is not new, the way we're using it isn't even new, it's not original, and it's definitely not unusual.
0:16:23.1 EC: As we discussed previously, it's the mechanism... Needs to be thought of as the mechanism of how it works. So the way that CBD specifically works is it's an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and it's proliferative. So I want you to think of the word CBD... When you see I'm a CBD specialist, or if you're thinking about being a cannabis specialist, a cannabis skin care specialist, and replace it with antioxidant. So I am an antioxidant specialist, or let's replace it with a hydration. I'm a hydration specialist, a skin care hydration specialist. So when you rephrase or reframe that position or that statement, what you know as a licensed professional or as a consumer, is it's the entire formulation that creates the efficacy, it's the entire formulation that makes the difference. And CBD and terpenes are just a piece of that pie.
0:17:31.6 EC: So if you're looking at an ingredient deck, for example, you'll see the listing for cannabidiol, for linalool, it's all different placements in that, and you know what that means, is it's the concentration. So to specify, like I'm a vitamin C expert, for example, it negates the rest of that formulation, it takes away from the fact that there are stabilizing agents, that there're other access agents, and it also, quite honestly, puts an expiration point on that specialty because this is an ingredient that's not going anywhere. With that being said too, this is one thing that really irks me, is that we are putting an upcharge or an increased price to a CBD facial or a hemp facial, that somehow there is more value to that.
0:18:24.2 EC: And the thing is, I challenge you to not do that for several reasons. There's a lot of really great companies who have very affordable products, you can do a complete CBD facial. Again, is that novelty or is that gimmick? But if you decide to go that route, there are companies that are very affordable and it doesn't require an extra fee to pass on to your clients. And there are... If you're paying too much for your CBD, then you need to find a different company or ask why. There is another company that's an amazing clinical line that has one CBD product to it because they understand the ingredients are what change it, that it's a whole entourage of products or protocols or system that goes with it. So I challenge you to change your thinking on that a little bit.
0:19:15.9 EC: Okay, so just to summarize, the five things that CBD is not: CBD is not plural, CBD is not an oil, CBD is not illicit, CBD is not a loner, and CBD is not a novelty or a gimmick. Happy National CBD Day. Thank you for listening. For more information on today's podcast or ways to connect with myself or more information on ASCP, please check out the show notes. As always, don't forget to check out the next episode of ASCP Esty Talk.
0:19:50.5 EC: Thanks for joining us today. If you like what you hear and you want more, subscribe. If you wanna belong to the only all-inclusive association for estheticians that includes professional liability insurance, education, industry insights, and an opportunity to spotlight your sick skills, join at ascpskincare.com, only 259 per year for all this goodness. ASCP knows, it's all about you.