Collagen and Aging Skin

As clients age, there are distinctive skin needs that arise in the treatment room. Firming, anti-aging, tightening, and lifting: These are words clients often use to describe what they want for their aging skin.  

How does aging skin typically present? 

• Fine lines 
• Loss of plumpness 
• Thinning skin 
• Wrinkles 

As a licensed professional, you can recommend treatments that provide clients with visible changes to their skin. There’s also proactiveness and responsibility with educating clients. Additionally, it’s critical to set expectations of methods they can use to reverse the signs of aging and preserve their skin. Let's first look at collagen’s role in the aging process. 

Collagen  

There are five primary collagens that reside within the papillary and reticular dermis. Collagen I and collagen III are directly linked to strength, movement, and elasticity within the skin. Fibroblasts are formed in the dermis and are responsible for producing collagen and tightening the skin. Vitamin C and essential fatty acids are key nutrients for fibroblasts to thrive in stimulating the skin to produce more collagen. These key nutrients can be applied topically at home and within the treatment room or ingested to stimulate fibroblast activity.   

The body naturally produces less collagen with age, but there are other extrinsic factors that can accelerate collagen loss and visible signs of aging in the skin.  

Unprotected ultraviolet (UV) exposure breaks down collagen and elastin within the skin. It’s crucial for clients to start healthy skin care practices such as sun protection through regular sunscreen application. Protecting the skin with daily sunscreen greatly reduces the UV damage that leads to more pronounced wrinkles and pigmentation. Studies show that UV exposure is a leading cause of oxidative stress in the body. Oxidative stress is the loss of valuable nutrients such as vitamin C and E within the cell membrane. Sun exposure is also the main contributor to excess free radicals that attack skin cells, along with pollution, poor nutrition, stress, dehydration, and smoking that feed free radicals in the skin, which leads to more oxidative stress in the body.  

Prevention 

Loss of collagen is not a sudden occurrence and happens over time. Prevention is key for clients to rescue their skin from the accelerated aging process. It’s important to set realistic expectations of the potential timelines that contributed to the loss of collagen as well as the possible results that clients can attain when treating collagen loss.  

Ways to stimulate the production of collagen within the treatment room include: 

• Microcurrent—a modality that stimulates collagen and elastin production through a low level of electrical current, helping to reverse visible signs of aging  
• Nano infusion—a noninvasive way to deliver serums through the epidermis and aid in reducing fine lines and wrinkles 
• Microneedling—aids in stimulating collagen production and helps with fine lines, wrinkles, scarring, and hyperpigmentation 
• Red light therapy—aids in reducing inflammation and signals more collagen production 
   

Critical home care to stimulate collagen production and slow down the signs of aging:  

• Vitamin C—a leading ingredient that not only protects the skin from oxidative stress but also provides great brightening benefits and firming effects in the skin  
• Antioxidants—help fight free radicals and aid in preserving the skin.  

Resources 

Gromkowska-Kępka, K. J., et al. “The Impact of Ultraviolet Radiation on Skin Photoaging—Review of In Vitro Studies.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 20, no. 11 (November 2021): 3427–31. doi.org/10.1111/jocd.14033. 

Reilly, D. M., and J. Lozano. “Skin Collagen Through the Lifestages: Importance for Skin Health and Beauty.” Plastic and Aesthetic Research 8, no. 2 (2021). dx.doi.org/10.20517/2347-9264.2020.153. 

 

Skin Script Professional Skin Care 

Facial Protocol Featuring Ultimate Firming Mask 

Quick Overview   

Skin conditions: Good for all skin types, especially mature skin. Protocol features: Ultimate Firming Mask with peptides and antioxidant support to address collagen loss. 

Step 1  

Cleanse with Pomegranate Antioxidant Cleanser or Green Tea Citrus Cleanser; remove with esthetic wipes, sponges, or a steam towel. Perform a second cleanse with Green Tea Citrus Cleanser or Glycolic Cleanser; remove with esthetics wipes, sponges, or a steam towel. 

Step 2  

Tone with Cucumber Hydration Toner by spritzing it over the skin or applying it with a cotton round.   

Step 3  

Apply Passionfruit Enzyme with a Skin Script Fan Brush in an even layer over the face and leave for 7–10 minutes. It’s normal for skin to appear red and warm for several hours posttreatment. Alternatively, you can apply Pineapple Enzyme for the same amount of time.  

  

Step 4  

Remove enzyme with a warm steam towel or with cool esthetic wipes. Perform extractions if needed. Apply 1–2 pumps of Citrus-C Nourishing Cream to the face. 

Step 5  

Apply Ultimate Firming Mask with a Skin Script Fan Brush in an even layer over the face and leave on for 10 minutes. Remove with a warm steam towel. 

Step 6  

Mist the face again with Cucumber Hydration Toner. Apply one pump of Tri-Peptide Eye Cream along the orbital bone. Moisturize with one pump of Peptide Restoration Moisturizer (or an appropriate weight moisturizer). 

  

Step 7 

Protect with Sheer Protection SPF 30; warm a blueberry-size amount in fingertips and evenly distribute it over the face, lightly pressing and patting into the skin until absorbed. 

Step 8 

Apply a small amount of Ageless Lip Treatment to the lips. 

Suggested Client Home Care 

• Ageless Lip Treatment  
• Ageless Skin Hydrating Serum 
• Citrus-C Nourishing Cream  
• Cucumber Hydration Toner   
• Green Tea Citrus Cleanser 
• Peptide Restoration Moisturizer  
• Pomegranate Antioxidant Cleanser 
• Sheer Protection SPF 30  
• Tri-Peptide Eye Cream