posted on: August 18, 2026
by Maggie Staszcuk
Even with advances in technology and esthetic procedures, chemical peels continue to be a mainstay in professional esthetics. With so many types of peels on the market, there’s a peel for everyone. In esthetics school, lactic, glycolic, and salicylic are usually the peels we learn first, and become confident with, before branching out to more aggressive peeling agents like TCA or blended acids. The acid that often gets overlooked or underused in today’s world of “bigger is better” is glycolic acid.
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is often thought of as a basic peeling agent derived from sugarcane. While there are many natural and organic peeling options on the market, glycolic acid is usually manufactured synthetically and can be unpredictable when used.1
How Glycolic Acid Works as a Chemical Peel
Because glycolic acid has no end point, allowing the acid to travel deeper than intended if left on the skin too long, it requires neutralization to end the peeling process. Due to its small molecular size, glycolic acid also has the ability to absorb quickly and can cause the skin to peel unevenly.2 Irregular skin peeling is also caused by the health of the skin, the preparation of the skin leading up to the peel, and home care. For instance, if the client has been spot treating at home with a retinol, uneven peeling may occur. Additionally, deeper peeling is possible in areas where the skin was defatted more aggressively before the procedure.
Who is a good Candidate for a Glycolic Acid Peel?
Skin Concerns Addressed by Glycolic Acid Peels:
- Dry or dehydrated skin
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Uneven pigmentation
- Overall skin texture
Creating Realistic Expectations for Glycolic Acid Peels
Improvement in pigmentation and wrinkles with just one peel is not realistic. For a client who hopes to target these various aging issues, a series of 5–8 peels should be suggested. A noticeable difference will be seen with this progressive treatment plan.
Preparing the Skin Before a Glycolic Acid Peel
To ensure a smooth, even peel, the client should be prescribed a home-care regimen leading up to the chemical peel procedure that includes using a combination of products to even the stratum corneum and suppress melanin production. This may include retinols, hydroquinone, AHAs, and, of course, sunscreen. The amount of time the client is on this home-care program is dependent on their Fitzpatrick. For those who are a Fitzpatrick 1–3, a minimum of two weeks is required. For those with a darker Fitzpatrick, it’s best to prep the skin longer to ensure the success of the peel and minimize the chances of developing hypo- or hyperpigmentation.
Liability Insurance for Chemical Peels
Professional liability insurance for advanced chemical peels helps protect estheticians offering advanced exfoliation services. ASCP members have access to optional chemical peel insurance and other advanced modality coverage options designed to support professional practices offering advanced treatments. Learn more about advanced esthetics coverage options and eligibility requirements through ASCP.
FAQs
What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) commonly used in chemical peels to improve skin texture, pigmentation, and signs of aging.
What does a glycolic acid peel do?
A glycolic acid peel exfoliates the skin and can help improve the appearance of fine lines, uneven pigmentation, dryness, and rough texture.
How many glycolic acid peels are needed to see results?
Results vary, but a progressive series of approximately 5-8 treatments may be recommended depending on the client’s goals and skin condition.
Notes
1. Pamela Hill, “Peels and Peeling Agents,” Milady’s
Aesthetician Series: Peels and Chemical Exfoliations
(Clifton Park: Thompson Delmar Learning, 2006).
2. Jaishree Sharad, “Glycolic Acid Peel Therapy—A
Current Review,” Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational
Dermatology 6 (November 2013): 281–288.
3. P amela Hill, “Peels and Peeling Agents.”
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