By Maggie Staszcuk
The saying goes, “The eyes are the windows to the soul,” but if you aren’t treating the skin around the eyes, they can also give up your age faster than the rest of your face. This skin is prone to swelling, discoloration, and puffiness, and no one is spared the crow’s feet that begin to appear by our late 20s and 30s.
The skin around the eyes is 10 times thinner than the skin on the rest of the face and body. It also has less sebaceous glands, making it prone to dryness and dermatitis. Blinking alone can cause up to 10,000 movements per day.1 Squinting, smiling, furrowing of the brow, and other movements can contribute to fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes.
When performing an eye treatment, estheticians should first perform a skin analysis, examining the skin around the eyes, and then incorporate a regimen that supports the health of the skin and eye area. Targeted serums and eye creams with antioxidants, retinoids, and peptides can help with wrinkles, dark circles, and puffiness. These ingredients nourish and regenerate the delicate tissue around the eyes.
Here are some key ingredients to look for2:
- Peptides are building blocks for the collagen and elastin fibers in the skin. Peptides can boost the collagen that is lost over time and improve the look of fullness around the eyes.
- Ceramides are lipids (or emollients) that improve the health of the skin’s barrier. They help lock moisture into the skin, preventing dryness.
- Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3. This vitamin helps soothe the skin, build keratin to contribute to the skin’s barrier, and prevent transepidermal water loss.
- Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that binds water and helps with dehydration.
- Retinoids and retinol are derivatives of vitamin A that can reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
- Ferulic acid is an antioxidant that boosts the action of other antioxidants and helps reduce inflammation.
- Vitamin C is a classic antioxidant that supports collagen and brightens skin.
- Vitamin E is a natural anti-inflammatory and antioxidant with moisturizing and soothing properties.
- Vitamin K is often included in formulas to improve circulation and lessen dark circles, and is hailed for its wound-healing abilities.
- Caffeine is a natural antioxidant known to decrease puffiness and improve circulation.
ASCP's Esty Talk episode 203, It's All in the Eyes, talks about ingredients and treatments you can use to perk up your clients’ eyes.
Mediniche. "Ocular Skincare." Accessed July 31, 2023. https://www.mediniche.com/ocularskincare.html
All About Vision. "Eye Creams: What You Should Know Before You Buy." Accessed July 31, 2023. https://www.allaboutvision.com/eye-care/cosmetic/eye-cream/